Bar Review: Haberdasher
Beer Flip
For years, my favorite bar south of San Francisco was Single Barrel. It was my hangout. The owner, Cache, is one of the greatest bartenders I’ve ever had. If he is ever behind the bar, make sure to talk to him, and if he’s on the floor, make sure to talk to him. Raised in Hawaii, Cache has a relaxed and hysterical personality. The time I realized his brilliance in crafting cocktails was on the third anniversary of Single Barrel opening when they threw a Tiki Party. I have never particularly liked Tiki cocktails, but Cache began his career as working in Tiki bars and that night he made some of the best cocktails I’ve ever had.
A few years ago, Cache decided to re-brand Single Barrel, notorious for their “interview” where you discussed cocktails with a bartender which led to long lines, into Haberdasher that still offers the same cocktails, but without the line. If you know the staff, the interview, discussing cocktails, can still happen. I suggest you begin with the menu though. It is an everchanging menu with tested new cocktails that sometime offer a great surprise.
One of the aspects of most bars I despise is loud music. If I wanted loud music, I would go to a club. But, a bar is meant to be like a real pub in my mind. You should be able to talk without having to shout and lose your voice or hearing. Haberdasher like Single Barrel before is designed to be able to have great conversations over great drinks.
Over the years, I’ve probably had… and this is going to make me sound like a lush… two hundred different cocktails at Single Barrel / Haberdasher. After you’ve tried the menu, I would suggest discussing with a bartender your likes and dislikes and put yourself in their hands.
Here are some of my favorite cocktails that I return to order time after time.
The Vieux Carre: A classic cocktail that combines Rye Whiskey, which in general terms has a wonderful spice behind the whiskey notes, and Cognac, which has a slightly smoother, sweet finish. There are a few other ingredients, but, they combine to produce an easily drinkable smooth and balance cocktail. They can be dangerous as they are so easy to drink.
A Beer Flip: Flips are such an underappreciated drink in America. The idea of a raw egg freaks too many people out. Little do most know that mayonnaise or aioli are made from raw eggs whisked with oil until emulsified. A shaken drink with a raw egg produces a frothy like texture that feels as if there is milk or cream in it, but there isn’t. Flips come in all forms and when I was going through a flip kick, I always ended my night with a different flip. So many great ones: Fenway Flip (using Whiskey and Pimms with bitters on top to create a baseball diamond), Hotel Pillow Flip (mint infused), but my favorite flip is a Beer Flip. Using a somewhat standard balance of syrup, rum, perhaps Pimms are combined with a raw egg and shaken, but it is finished by adding dark beer, preferably a stout, but a porter will do. The taste is almost like… alcoholic chocolate milk. Just amazing.
Rocky Mountain Monkberry: A whiskey cocktail whose center is Rocky Mountain Blackberry. The drink is finished with a lime peel, which adds the perfect citrus aroma. The Whiskey is more forefront on this drink with a little sweetness to simply balance (not sweet at all) finished with that citrus scent.
Leather Bound Book: Once again whiskey (can you sense a theme in my favorite cocktails) but this time balanced with cinnamon syrup. It really does feel comforting.
The Scottish Play: This is not a drink that you should order… when I originally ordered it, I asked for a cocktail that would be like rubbing my face in a fireplace. They recommended the Scottish Play. A drink with… too much alcohol for it’s own good, but man… what an incredible drink. If you like smoky, peaty Scotch, this cocktail starts with Laphroaig Scotch and ends with a burnt orange peel accenting the smokiness. On Single Barrel’s final day being opened, they arranged for a cigar lounge on the street level, which allowed me to complete my dream of having a Scottish Play with a cigar. Amazing.
